Meet the sixth generation of Australia’s famous wine family as they reflect on history and step up to the challenges that lie ahead.
More than 150 years of winemaking is embedded in the DNA of the Henschke clan. One of Australia’s first and finest wine families, they manage more than 100 hectares of vines stretching from Eden Valley to the Adelaide Hills. Now the clan’s young guns have their eyes firmly on a sustainable – and international – future as they make their mark on the storied label.
Johann Henschke, eldest of the sixth generation Henschke siblings, is entrenched in all aspects of managing the family business. He has his sights set on elevating Henschke wines on an international stage – including, of course, the signature Hill of Grace shiraz, which tops many lists as Australia’s finest shiraz.
“I’ve always been fascinated with science,” says Johann, recently arrived from Spain where he lives with his wife and children. He’s back in the Eden Valley for vintage, getting dirty in the vines tasting grapes with senior winemaker Gwyn Olsen and his winemaker father Stephen and tasting fermenting parcels together back at the winery. “It can be really rewarding tasting parcels that show incredible quality at this point; all the work the vineyard and winery teams have done throughout the season shines through.”
For Johann it was less a choice and more a calling when it came to joining the family business.
“I realised I had the opportunity to continue a very special project my family had been working on since settling in the Eden Valley in the 1860s. Being able to finally work with and learn from my parents is a privilege, and preserving many of the family’s traditions means we now have a unique story behind the wine.”
For his sister Justine Henschke, winemaking and viticulture lured her back to the Barossa in 2015 after working in lifestyle, fashion, food and wine PR. “I realised how much I loved communicating about wine and how natural it felt to me.”
Determined to stay true to riesling and shiraz as Henschke’s hero varieties, she’s also curious to explore new grape horizons, a quest helped by her mother Prue, who has planted nebbiolo, barbera, tempranillo and graciano after her travels. “We’ve been able to release some exciting wines from these blocks over the past decade.”
Rounding out the trio is Andreas Henschke who has been focused on the design upgrade of the red wine cellar.
“I realised I had the opportunity to continue a very special project my family had been working on since settling in the Eden Valley in the 1860s. Being able to finally work with and learn from my parents is a privilege, and preserving many of the family’s traditions means we now have a unique story behind the wine.”
Alongside the business itself, the sixth generation will also inherit the very real threat of climate change. Building drought resilience and bushfire protection with enough water supply to shelter their vineyards is paramount. Protecting their vines from the pest phylloxera is another pressing concern.
Combating these existential threats while ensuring consistently great wine is a combination of cutting-edge science and technology and embracing the wisdom of age-old traditions.
“There are many forgotten techniques in the vineyard that we’re still finding or refining, whether it’s the lunar cycles or vine health,” says Andreas. “Other traditions that we’ve kept within the winery, such as open top fermentation, have defined our winemaking style and set us apart.”
And when it comes to tasting Australia’s finest wine, what glass is best? “There’s no excuse to not taste great wine out of excellent glassware,” says Johann. “I look for a durable wine glass that still has a thin rim and large, tulip-shaped bowl so that the wine’s aromas are focused into the nose. These characteristics also optimise the way the wine lands on the tongue so that the wine’s structure and balance can be emphasised.”
“I look for a beautifully delicate glass with a thin stem that I can enjoy both white and red wines out of and is still durable enough to wash in the dishwasher,” says Justine. “I have a set of the Plumm Three Sommelier Series No 1 Universal Glass at home. It fits the brief well!”
Henschke use Plumm Everyday Sparkling Glass and Everyday Red glasses as part of their cellar door experience covering all facets of their tasting room needs. Glass shape and its impact on the wine is incredibly important in helping to showcase and bring out the detail in the wines.
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